Posts Tagged behavior
Why does my dog eat paper?
Posted by Nate in Uncategorized on May 13th, 2009
Question
Why does my five-year-old Chihuahua eat paper? She particularly likes tissues and paper towels that she finds in trash cans throughout the house and she seems to have trouble making bowel movements after eating paper.
Answer
Quite simply, your dog likes paper! She doesn’t have a “cause and effect mode” to connect eating paper with a stomach ache and/or constipation, so it may be difficult to train her to stop eating paper products. Consequently, it is up to you to keep trash out of her reach. Reprimand her when you catch her eating paper with a strong “no” or “drop it” and provide more diversionary tasks for her, such as walks, play time and pet-safe toys, to keep her occupied.
This question was answered by Dr. Lauren Keating, owner of Natural Bridge Hospital for Animals in Natural Bridge Station, Virginia.
Basic Dog Training Tips - How to Train a Dog to Stand and Stay
Posted by Nate in Uncategorized on April 29th, 2009
Learn to train your dog to stand and stay in this free dog training video. Expert: Jim Leske Bio: Jim Leske is an Animal Behaviorist & Trainer, he has worked as a Zoo keeper, Veterinary Assistant,.
Why does my dog lick so much?

Dogs lick a lot for many reasons. Licking may be a sign of affection, your dog’s way of showing you that she’s enjoying spending time cuddled on the couch with you. Or, she may just like the taste of your soap!
Extreme licking: Though it’s usually harmless, licking can be a problem if carried to an extreme. Sometimes dogs can lick compulsively or as a response to stress or boredom. Obsessive dogs that lick themselves non-stop can lick their fur off and even injure their skin. This is a behavioral problem that may require veterinary intervention. If you’re worried that your dog’s licking is unusual, consult your veterinarian.
Cat Health and Predatory Behavior

Question Is hunting and eating his prey bad for our cat’s health? We live in a rural area and our neutered male cat is quite the hunter. At least once a week he brings mice, moles, birds, and even a bat into the house. He normally kills the prey and then eats it, if we don’t get there first and take it from him.
Answer Hunting is certainly the most natural way for a cat to eat, and in general, eating the prey is not that dangerous, with a few exceptions.
Most concerning is the bat you mentioned. In many parts of the country, bats can carry rabies, which is a disease you don’t want to fool with. Make absolutely sure your cat stays current on all his vaccinations, particularly his rabies vaccination. And don’t directly expose yourself to a living or dead bat; wear gloves if you must handle a bat. Other species that are at risk for carrying rabies include skunks, raccoons, foxes and occasionally coyotes. Although your cat does not prey on these animals, he could come into contact with them if he spends a lot of time outdoors.
If anyone in your household is pregnant or planning pregnancy, she should avoid contact with the cat’s feces (have someone else do the litterbox cleaning and the gardening), and wash her hands after petting him.
Other things your kitty could contract are mostly minor, such as bacterial and fungal infections and some parasites. Check your cat often for fleas and ticks, and have a stool sample checked by a veterinarian every six to 12 months to determine the presence of intestinal parasites.
As long as your cat goes outdoors, he will always hunt, and not much you do will change that. A bell collar may help a bit to alert prey to the cat’s presence, but plenty of cats hunt quite effectively with such collars.
Why does my cat urinate on the carpet instead of in the litter box?
Question:
Why does my cat urinate on the carpet instead of in the litter box?
Answer:
There are several causes of inappropriate urination, including
- Dirty litter box
- Territorial behavior
- Urinary tract disorder
Have you cat checked out by a veterinarian to help differentiate between a physical versus behavioral problem. Sometimes it is as simple as making sure the litter box is kept clean, or adding another litter box. There are also ample tips to remedy inappropriate urination that your veterinarian can give you.
This question was answered by Dr. Lauren Keating, owner of Natural Bridge Hospital for Animals in Natural Bridge Station, Virginia.
Why does my cat attack me?
Question: Sometimes my cat will be content and purring when I’m petting him, and then suddenly his tail will start to twitch and he’ll start to bite my hands. He also loves to jump out and attack my feet when I’m walking by. Why does he get carried away and attack me?
Answer: Strange as it may seem, your cat is not attacking you out of hostility, but because he is a perfectly normal cat. Many cats nip and bite when they’re happy, particularly if they have a low threshold for stimulation. You can learn the warning signs of when your cat’s becoming overstimulated: you might feel his muscles tense or see his tail twitch or his rear end waggle. If you can tell he’s about to bite, stop petting, and pet him again when he’s calmed down.
If your cat is stalking your feet, he’s engaging in what is called predatory-play behavior. He has a natural instinct to attack moving objects in the wild. Indoors, your feet are the only moving prey he has to ambush. The easiest way to prevent this behavior is by making sure your cat is neutered, which is the first step toward making him less aggressive.
Second, you can give him plenty of non-human moving targets to play with by trailing a string across the floor, waving feather toys, or giving him balls to bat around. Finally, you can help change his behavior by consistently discouraging his attacks. Safe and effective ways to do this are spraying him with a water bottle or using a can of compressed air–just like the ones used on computer keyboard–to make a loud hissing sound. If you are vigilant and discourage the attacks consistently, you’ll take a big step toward changing your cat’s behavior.
Reasons why Dogs Fight - Behavior Problems
Reasons Why Dogs Fight
There is a lot more to know about dog fights than just knowing how to break them up. Dog fights can cause long term physical and behavioral problems. If a fight occurs it is important to seek veterinary care immediately for physical injuries. Your veterinarian will also be able to help you deal with your dog’s aggression towards other canines.
Understanding the cause will help prevent future fights. Your veterinarian will want a detailed account of the fight; each small detail can uncover important clues to the cause. Be prepared to know where everyone and the actions and postures of the dogs themselves just before, during and after the fight. A dog that has been a “victim” multiple times or a dog that has instigated fights will benefit from veterinary behavior advice because severe anxiety may exist. Please note that habitual “victims” can turn their anxiety into aggression towards other dogs or people.
There are two different events that can occur; a scuffle or argument and a true fight. A scuffle may occur as a necessary process that teaches a dog about its social system. These usually will be loud and vicious sounding; however, it usually ends within a minute and most dogs come away with no injuries. During a scuffle, dogs often grab around the ears, sides of the neck and shoulders. In most cases however, even the scuffle should not occur as appeasement postures on the part of one dog, will usually cause the aggressor to cease.
A true fight can end in severe injury or even death. During a true fight, the aggressor will grab for the front legs, the throat and the belly. In reaction to the attack, the recipient may attempt to stop the aggressor by grabbing a hold of the aggressor’s ear and refusing to let go. This prevents the aggressor from getting a hold of the recipient’s throat. Dogs involved in fights need to be seen by a veterinarian immediately for medical and behavioral assessment.
Healthy Pets - Living With Your Cat, Part 2
Can you imagine a nice fluffy Persian or orange tabby cat rolling over, shaking hands, jumping through hoops, or balancing a treat on the end of his nose? If you’re living with shredded drapes and fur-covered kitchen counters, the thought may make you laugh. It’s conventional wisdom that cats can’t be taught new behaviors, that they’re pretty much going to do whatever they want. The secret is, you can teach a cat new tricks, but you can’t do it just by thinking of your cat as a dog with longer whiskers.
The lone ranger
A big part of teaching your cat to be a good roommate is understanding that cats’ brains are wired differently than dogs’. Dogs are pack animals; being constantly social is in their genes. In the wild, their survival can depend in part on whether they are in the good graces of the rest of their pack. Wild cats, on the other hand, are generally solitary hunters, evolved to take care of themselves. They don’t have as much invested in earning your approval and keeping you happy all the time. This is why a stern “no” and a shaking finger usually won’t keep the cat off your computer keyboard.
But don’t lose heart. You can teach your cat to be a pleasant roommate. The key lies in understanding that he’s generally going to behave in the way that’s in his own best interest. You could call most cats all day, for example, without seeing the tips of their whiskers. But when the can opener whirrs or the bag of treats rustles, they’re at your feet before you can blink. You can use this same philosophy to teach Fluffy good behavior by showing him what’s in it for him.
Feline graffiti
One of the most aggravating problems with cats is scratching. Though it may be hard to recall right after your kitty gouges your antique dining room table, claw sharpening is just normal cat behavior. Scratching is your cat’s way of leaving his mark, of telling any visitors that he is the ruler of his kingdom. You’re most likely not going to get your cat to stop scratching completely. You can get him to scratch the right things, however.
A scratching post is vital to getting your pet’s behavior under control. You may want to buy more than one and place them next to his favorite places to scratch–the side of the couch, for example, or the living room drapes. Since he’s using scratching to claim his territory, you may also want to put a post in a prominent place, so he can show everyone the house belongs to him. Then make the posts as attractive as possible. Rub them with a blanket your cat sleeps on, so he’ll recognize his smell and think of the posts as his. You can also rub them with catnip or spray them with catnip spray, which you can find at most pet stores.
When he scratches the post, give him exactly what he craves. If it’s attention, give him lots of love and cooing praise. But if your kitty is the kind that only wants petting when he’s in the mood, then give him a treat or a bit of catnip. (A warning–catnip may not be the perfect training tool. First off, it can make some cats more aggressive and more likely to misbehave. Also, if your cat has access to catnip every day, it can start to lose its effect on him.) If you catch him scratching something else, don’t yell or threaten him. Violent reactions will only scare most cats, and it will make some defensive and aggressive. Instead, distract him by making a hissing sound or clapping your hands. Then put the nicer-smelling, more attractive scratching post next to him and scratch it a little with your fingertips to give him the right idea.
The litter dilemma
Litter box training is often one of the easiest parts of living with a cat. Cats naturally prefer to eliminate in soft, sandy material, so most cats will use the litter box by choice. If your cat is going outside of his box, there is probably something about the box that he doesn’t like. The most important thing to check for is a medical problem. If your kitty has a urinary or intestinal tract obstruction, he may associate the pain of trying to go the bathroom with the box itself. Or, he may not like the kitty litter you’re using. Most cats prefer smaller-grained, sandier litter to gravel-sized litter. Some cats also object to scented litters. Remember, though it may smell pleasant and fresh to you, his sensitive nose thinks it’s a perfume explosion.
The next thing you can do is make the litter box as attractive as possible–make it the best place in the house for him to go. Most cats are neat freaks, so cleaning the box out every day will help. Some particularly finicky cats may want you to clean it even more than that. Some cats also prefer to use separate boxes for urinating and defecating. Try setting out two boxes and see if that helps. Finally, you can make sure the box is away from his food and in a secluded corner, where he feels safe and doesn’t have to be on guard.
Love bites
It’s the oddest thing–you’re cuddling your cat and he’s purring away like a motor boat, when suddenly he chomps down on your hand. What did you do wrong? Actually, he was just getting a little overstimulated. Sometimes when a cat is really enjoying being petted, he gets overwhelmed and his instincts tell him to get rid of that nervous energy by snapping at you. Yelling at him won’t accomplish much; he’ll just get tenser and more likely to nip every time you pet him. Instead, withdraw the stimulus completely. If he nips at you, try taking your hand away and not paying any attention to him. He’ll learn that, if he wants attention, biting is a no-no. If you give him lots of treats and cuddling when he’s at his calmest, he’ll learn that calm is the best way to be.
The king of the mountain
Nothing compares to the sight of your tabby perched regally on top of the kitchen counter, master of all he sees. Tabletops, counters, mantles, and bookshelves are ideal for cats, allowing them to keep a close eye on everything and make sure they’re not missing out on any fun. They’re not so great for people who don’t want cat hair in their dinner, however, or their knickknacks knocked to the floor. So how do you keep your feline’s feet on the ground?
Some trainers will suggest that a spritz of water from a squirt bottle or a loud hiss or rattle will keep cats away from the counter, and it may work for some pets. The tricky part, though, is making sure your cat associates the punishment with being on the counter and not with you. If they only get punished when people are in the room, and if you make a mad dash for the squirt bottle every time they jump up on the table, it won’t take most cats long to figure out that it’s people they need to keep away from, not the table.
A better way to keep your kitty off the forbidden surface is to cover it with two-sided tape. Cats don’t like it when their paws stick to things, so they will experience something unpleasant every time they jump up, whether or not you’re in the room. Eventually they’ll decide that the counter (or the mantle or the dining room table) is not where they want to be. You can also use aluminum foil or carpet runners turned nubby-side-up to keep your cat down on the ground. Also, try giving them an even better alternative to the table. If your kitty’s a born climber, you could try getting him a tall cat tree or a cat perch that attaches to a windowsill, which you can find at most pet stores. Again, you can rub it with the oh-so-tempting catnip, and pretty soon the counter won’t be quite so irresistible.
Even if you can’t get Fluffy to roll over and play dead, you can teach him to be a polite houseguest. If you can be patient and think like a cat, you can reclaim your kitchen table and your upholstery as your own. The best part is, he’ll think it was all his idea.
Click here for an instructive video by the Cornell Feline Health Center on taking your cat’s temperature.
Healthy Pets - Living With Your Cat, Part 1
Tabby is a trip. She snuggles, she purrs, and then she . . . leaves dead animals on your doorstep. She also coughs up hairballs, chews through wool sweaters, incessantly pulls out her own hair, and will only drink water in very particular ways. Although you might wish you could train Tabby to live in your house, you just might need to adjust to life in Tabby’s house.
Dead animal dilemma
There’s nothing quite like being greeted with a mangled bird on your doorstep when you go to get the paper in the morning. What is it with cats and killing? Are they trying to impress you?
Not at all, says Dr. Wayne Hunthausen of the Westwood Animal Hospital in Westwood, Kansas. “What you’re seeing is predatory behavior,” explains Hunthausen. “Cats will show partial segments of predatory behavior that occur out of context. Normally a cat would go out and hunt, bringing food back for the kittens. You’re seeing just a part of that behavior.” After she acts out her natural instincts, your cat goes back to being tame Tabby in her domesticated lifestyle. So don’t worry, according to Hunthausen. “The cat isn’t thinking she’s bringing you food to make you happy.” A relief, since toast and coffee, not a mangled animal, is more likely to be your breakfast of champions.
Why wool?
Obsessively chewing anything wool, Tabby has destroyed more sweaters, afghans, and upholstery than you like to remember. The motive behind this mysterious (to us) behavior will either be physical or psychological, depending on the cat, and in either case you should visit your veterinarian to get to the bottom of it.
Physically, Tabby may simply need more roughage in her diet, and wool chewing is the most available (though we can’t imagine tasty) way to fulfill her need. Some pet stores sell small planters of roughage-rich herbs that will entice a cat more than your favorite red sweater. Combined with a high-fiber diet, the planters may be a dream come true when it comes to controlling Tabby’s wool-mania. But you should first see your veterinarian and get an official opinion about changing Tabby’s diet.
Psychologically, if the root of the problem lies in Tabby’s thinker, your cat may be obsessed. Unfortunately, no one quite knows for sure what lies behind this drive. One explanation focuses on normal - but out of control - behavior for the cat. For example, eating fur is a normal activity when a cat catches an animal for dinner. But a cat that eats the fur - and only the fur - of her prey is exhibiting obsessive behavior. Cat obsessions often spring from exposure to stress. Your veterinarian can make a diagnosis and recommend treatment.
Baldie the wonder cat
Tabby may prefer chewing on herself to chewing on wool - and you can’t get her to stop. Stress, fleas, or an underlying allergy could all be the cause of Tabby’s constant licking, overgrooming, or pulling out her own fur. If your veterinarian rules out a physical condition (fleas, allergies), the cause of the problem is likely a compulsive disorder brought about by stress. Cats, as you well know, can be pretty picky when it comes to their preferences, and the addition of another animal or person to the house, a change in the environment, or a traumatic incident can all start a cat along the path to self-destruction.
But how to best bust Tabby’s balding behavior? “Above all, make sure you don’t punish the cat,” admonishes Hunthausen. “You don’t want to add any more stress to the environment. Once you’ve ruled out medical problems, the key to stopping unwanted behavior is to not reinforce it. If you catch your cat pulling out her hair, make an unusual noise that interrupts the behavior - click a clicker, blow a whistle - but ignore your cat while doing it. Avoid eye contact while the cat reorients herself to her surroundings, then take the cat’s mind off it. Engage in vigorous play and reinforce the nonlicking behavior.” Hunthausen also recommends increasing the amount of play and exercise Tabby receives during the day.
If the behavior is caused by an environmental stressor, try removing the stress and creating a quiet area for the cat. Give her lots of quality time, special treats, and anything to make her feel wanted and secure. If love and attention don’t do the trick, medication can be used as a last resort. But, as always, you’ll need to first see your veterinarian.
A side result of Tabby’s self-balding is hairballs. Hairballs are generally just a problem for the owner, who takes on the task of cleaning them up. The frequency of hairballs depends on the cat, the cat’s length of hair, and whom she is grooming besides herself. Keep an eye on her (to ensure she’s not grooming everything that walks), and brush her frequently to reduce the amount of hair she ingests. Medication can be used if necessary.
Eek! I’m melting!
The Wicked Witch of the East isn’t the only one who disdains water. Cats are notorious for their aversion to getting wet. But cat owners who consciously work to acclimate their kittens to water can teach a cat to enjoy bathing - and even swimming - as an adult. If Tabby is older, however, and has never been exposed to water, you will probably not be able to change her mind about it.
Cats can also be frustratingly peculiar about their drinking habits. Some will drink only from a certain dish, some cats insist upon running water, and some will only drink by dipping a paw into water and then licking it off. Drinking preferences, like their preferences for being wet, are set at an early age. Cats can be very sensitive to the size and shape of a drinking vessel, and some will only drink cool, running water (hence the attraction to a toilet basin or a slow drip from the faucet). Whatever Tabby’s preferences, you need to ensure that she gets enough water, especially if she eats dry food. While canned food contains up to 74 percent water and can be your finicky feline’s main thirst quencher, dry food contains only 10 percent water. Whatever food you are feeding Tabby, a separate, clean source of water should be available to her at all times. And however strange your cat’s drinking habits may seem to you, don’t discourage them. Let her drink water in whatever way, shape, or form she prefers.
Click here for an instructive video by the Cornell Feline Health Center on taking your cat’s temperature.
